1. Read or be familiar with tool operation. See general instructions posted near the machine 2. If you need assistance with any operation, ask the floor monitor or shop manager for help 3. For putting a straight and square edge on a board 4. Recommended to take off only 1/16” at a pass. More can be taken off, but the cut may not be as smooth and there is the possibility of more snipe 5. 12” minimum length of board to be planed 6. Do not face-joint (or plane) stock that is less than 3/8” thick 7. Do not plane the end grain of wood 8. Make sure fence is square to table. Square is attached to the side of the jointer 9. Open vacuum vent 10.Try to edge with the grain pattern for smoother cut. Especially with hard or curly wood. Going against the grain pattern may cause chip out. 11.Keep board flat against fence 12.Do not joint stock with loose knots 13.Keep pressure on board on back end of table 14.If board is narrower than fence height, use push stick when going over cutters 15.Do not pass hands on boards directly over cutter blades 16.Don’t edge a board longer than 8’ because it will interfere with the Miter (chop saw) Saw and Table Saw operating areas, (Do you really need the board that long?) 17.Make sure there is clearance if someone is using Table Saw or Miter (chop saw) Saws on either end. 18.If going to use shorter segments of long board, cut boards over length (to account for snipe) and edge them. Especially important if there is a curve on the board edge. It’s easier to straighten out a small arch than a large one Page 2 of 2 Edge Jointer last updated 1/25/07 19.Slower the cut the smoother the cut 20.Put one good edge on and then rip to width on the table saw 21.Can do chamfer (angle cut, or bevel) on edge—make sure fence is squared up after use 22.Can move fence back and forth if blades are nicked or dull 23.Close vacuum vent 24. Clean up mess